Visiting Ganagsagar was there in my
mind for quite sometime, particularly after completing the four holy abodes of
Badrinath, Puri, Raneshwaram and Dwarika.
While Kolkata Station is closer to
Airport, Howrah station can be said as in the center of Kolkata.
Our train reached a bit late as Sun
was going to set. Here one can find many “Ambassador” Taxis. Though I had
option of booking an Ola or Uber, I decided to take a prepaid Ambassador.
Sagar island is an island in the
Ganges delta, lying in the Bay of Bengal about 100 km south of Kolkata. From
this tip of island where we reach, there is another 40 KMs of travel to reach
the other tip of island, where we take bath at the place Ganga is merging with
sea.
I had plans to book a Taxi, but
taxis go only the Harwood point, rest of the distance one has to manage
themselves through Steamer and then again Bus/Taxi. Feeling a taxi only till
Harwood point, a costly option, we decided to take a Bus.
Both Private and Govt buses can be
taken at Esplanade (or Dharamtalla). Its better to take private buses as they
will drop at close to Harwood Point. Govt buses will drop at “NayaRaasta” and
we had to take a “Jugaadgaadi” to reach there.
Buses going towards Namakhana will
drop at NayaRaaata. Harwood Point is about 4 KM from here.
The road from Kolkata to Harwood’s
Point is good but single. So there is always a lot of traffic and this distance
of about 100 KMs takes about 3 hours.
We took a Govt bus at 7 AM and got
down at “NayaRaasta”. From there a “JugaadGaadi” took us to Jetty, a distance
of about 4 KMs.
“JugaadGaadi” were made using old
Jeep engines or water pumps. They make a lot of noise and poluution and there
is no registration etc for them. There must be some mechanism to regulate.
It was about 1045 AM, as we took the
steamer tickets. It was about to leave and we had to rush, but we could not
make it and it left us waiting for another hour there.
Finally, our steamer arrived and as
being at front of the queue, were able to get comfortable seats.
Steamer got overloaded to atleast
double of the capacity. Same thing, I saw at Dwarika, while crossing the sea to
BhetDwarika.
There were some people selling
eatables for birds, and many ladies were rushing to buy these to earn some
easily available “Punya”.
Unfortunately, this process has some
drawbacks, one I already mentioned about the changing food habits of birds and
also as more people started gathering on one side of boat, it results in
tilting of boat towards that side. Verbal duals started among many people,
still some “Punya searching” souls continued feeding birds.
We took a rickshaw on the island to
reach the bus stand.
There are many private taxis
available but it will be cost efficient only if you have minimum 4-5 people. We
decided to take a bus and in next one hour we were at GangaSagar.
Here again one Rickshaw took us to
the beach, where people take bath and pay their reverence to Ganges.
- Kolkata (Esplanade/Dharamtalla) – 100 KMs – Harwood Point (easily identified as GangaSagar)
- Harwood Point – Steamer (about 40 minutes)– Kachuberia (Sagar Island – Sagardweep)
- Sagar Island Jetty – Bus/Taxi – 40 KMs – Ganga Sagar
Here river is nothing less than
ocean. Infact it does not look like a river; it is like a vast ocean with
waves. Many people were taking bath, to absolve themselves and to pay reverence
to mother Ganges.
We also took bath. The water is as
salty as of a typical ocean. Waters are quite shallow and so bathing and
playing with waters is a pleasure.
After taking bath, we did small
Pooja with help of a priest there. There was not much rush at this time of
year.
It is a small temple, it is said
that here earlier the ashram of Sage Kapil was there. As per the legend, King
Sagar (ancestor of Lord Ram) had done a AshwamedhaYagna. Indra got jealous and
stole the horse and tied near the ashram of sage Kapil.
The king sent his 60,000 sons to
find it, and they found it next to Kapil Muni's ashram, where Indra had hidden
it. Mistaking Kapil Muni for the thief, the sons accused Kapil Muni, who in his
wrath at the false accusation burned them to ash. Later having compassion for
the King Sagar's sons, Kapil Muni agreed that if river goddess Ganga would
descend to Earth and purify their ashes, then they all will be liberated.
After visiting Kapil Muni Temple, it
was time to return back. We had to wait for sometime at bus stand as no bus was
available.
We all rushed and somehow were able
to get place for us in that “triple the capacity” steamer. The steamer waited
till more and more people kept on overloading it.
On the way as another steamer passed
us close by, the ripples generated were enough to send a chill of spine in all
the passengers who overloaded it.
We reached Esplanade at around 8 PM.
It was quite rush there and taxi drivers were asking for huge money for our
hotel, so needed to wait for some time and finally with help of an Uber, we
reached our room.
Food was good at the WBTDC Lodge,
badly tired, we took our dinner quickly and went to bed.
One thing to note here that there
are no hotels at GangaSagar except a few “Dharamshala”. Bharat Sevashram Sangha
has a few rooms available and their reference can be taken from Internet.
I feel it may not be required to
stay there for night unless if someone wants to do so. Gangasagar can be
visited comfortably from Kolkata as a day trip.
Day 2:
We wake up early though a bit
leisurely pace we prepared ourselves for the day trip at Kolkata.
With a breakfast of “LuchiTorkari”
(Poori with Potato veg), we started our Kolkata excursion.
Plan was to visit following places
for today:
1. Kalighat
2. Birla Temple
3. Victoria Memorial
4. Dakshineshwar
5. Belur Mutt
Though this list does not include
many places, but it was enough for a day.
We discussed about possibility of
hiring a taxi for the day, but then decided to go through local autos/taxis or
with Ola/Uber place to place.
First place was
Kalighat Shaktipeeth.
Kalighat is located on the old course
of the Hooghly river. The river over a period of time has moved away from the
temple. The temple is now on the banks of a small canal called Adi Ganga which
connects to the Hooghly.
Kalighat is regarded as one of the
51 Shakti Peethas. Kalighat represents the site where the toes of the right
foot of Sati fell.
There was not much rush, but
whatever little was there I tried to avoid by taking entry through “special
darshan” route.
So here we were infront of the
mother of universe. She is there with three huge eyes, long tongue and four
hands.
Here there was some rush to take
glimpse of the almighty mother, with her grace, we were able to have a good
darshan and prayed for her blessings.
There is a Krishna temple also inside
the temple at the west side of the main temple.
There is a sacred tank situated in
the south-east of the temple outside the boundary walls. It is called as 'Kaku-Kunda'. In 16th century the image of right
toe of Sati was discovered from this tank. This tank is well known for its
power to bestow the boon of a child. The water from this tank is regarded as
sacred as that of the Ganges.
Happy we came out of temple and
clicked a few photographs with temple.
It is basically a Radha Krishna
temple. It is open in the morning from 5.30 A.M. to 11 A.M. and in the evening
from 4 .30 P.M. to 9 P.M.
Unfortunately, when we reached there
it was closed.
The left side temple shikhar (dome)
houses goddess Durga and the right side dome houses Shiva.
The temple also showcases pictorial
depiction of scriptures of Bhagavad Gita in its stone engravings and some
intricate Rajasthani temple architecture.
Unable to have darshan here, with
some heavy mood, we took a taxi to visit the famous icon of Kolkata, theVictoria Memorial.
The Victoria Memorial is a huge
marble building, built between 1906 and 1921. It is dedicated to the memory of
Queen Victoria (1819–1901) and is now a museum under control of Ministry of
Culture.
It is surrounded by huge lawns
around it. There were many people visiting this place mostly to spend time in
greenery which is abundant here. The main portion of building houses the
museum.
There are two separate kinds of
ticket. One for Museum and another for visiting gardens.
We took the museum ticket and
approached the main building passing through the beautiful gardens.
In January 1901, after the death of
Queen Victoria, George Curzon, Viceroy of India, suggested the creation of a
memorial. He proposed the construction of a grand building with a museum and
gardens.
"Let
us, therefore, have a building, stately, spacious, monumental and grand, to
which every newcomer in Calcutta will turn, to which all the resident
population, European and Native, will flock, where all classes will learn the
lessons of history, and see revived before their eyes the marvels of the
past."
The Prince of Wales, King George V,
laid the foundation stone on 4 January 1906, and it was formally opened to the
public in 1921.
In 1912, before the construction of
the Victoria Memorial was finished, King George V announced the transfer of the
capital of India from Calcutta to New Delhi.
There are statutes of Curzon, Queen
Victoria in the compound.
The large dome and all the structure
around it is now a museum and has very rich collection.
It is interesting to know that the
Victoria Memorial was funded by Indian states, perhaps due to threat from
British Raj.
The Victoria Memorial's architect
was William Emerson, president of the Royal Institute of British Architects.
The design is a mixture of British and Mughal.
It is constructed of white Makrana
marble.
Atop the central dome of the
Victoria Memorial is the figure of the Angel of Victory. Surrounding the dome
are sculptures including Art, Architecture, Justice, and Charity and above the
North Porch are Motherhood, Prudence and Learning.
There are many portraits of British
monarchs and officers including Victoria and Prince Albert.
Outside the building is statue of
Victoria seated on her throne, wearing the robes of the Star of India. There
are many statues around the building likethat of Hastings, Charles Cornwallis, Robert
Clive, Arthur Wellesley and Dalhousie.
As we entered the Victoria Memorial
building from the south, we pass through the Edward VII memorial arch. Upon the
arch is a bronze equestrian statue of Edward VII and a marble statue of Curzon.
The garden contains statues of dignitaries such as Lord William Bentinck and George
Robinson, governor-generals of India and Rajendra Nath Mookerjee, a pioneer
industrialist of Bengal.
After visiting the museum, we took
some rest in the lawn under the soothing shades. It was a good feeling to be
there.
Many people visit there just to
enjoy the beautiful gardens.
Now was time for Dakshineshwar.
Dakshineswar Kali Temple is located
on the eastern bank of the Hooghly River, the presiding deity of the temple is
Bhavatarini, an aspect of Kali, meaning, 'She who liberates Her devotees from
the ocean of existence i.e. Saṃsāra'.
The temple was built in 1855 by Rani Rashmoni, a philanthropist and a devotee
of Kali. The temple is famous for its association with Ramakrishna.
Again we took a taxi. It was some
distance away and as far as I remember it took more than an hour to reach.
The temple compound, apart from the
nine-spired main temple, contains a large courtyard. There are twelve shrines (Jyotirlinga)
dedicated to Shivaalong the riverfront, a temple to Radha-Krishna, a bathing
ghat on the river, a shrine dedicated to Rani Rashmoni.
The temple was closed when we
reached there. It was scheduled to open at 330 PM. We waited outside. There is
a small market in the compound selling offerings and some eatables. It is adjacent
to the river front.
“There is
no need to go to Banaras. Install my statue in a beautiful temple on the banks
of the Ganges river and arrange for my worship there. Then I shall manifest
myself in the image and accept worship at that place.”
More than 1 lakh Brahmins were
invited from different parts of the country to grace the auspicious occasion.
Built in the traditional
'Nava-ratna' or nine spires style of Bengal architecture, the three-storeyed
south-facing temple has nine spires distributed in upper two storeys, and
stands on a high platform with a flight of stairs.
Getting blessed, we visited all the
12 Shiva shrines.
Dakshineshwar is a wonderful place
to be.
Evening was approaching and it was
time to take taxi to Belur Mutt.
It is on the other side of Ganga.
The approach road from Main road to Dakshineshwar temple is not good and very
crowded. Administration needs to work on this.
Belur Mutt is the headquarters of
the Ramakrishna Mission, founded by Swami Vivekananda.
As soon as we entered the Belur Mutt
complex, the first attraction is on the left side and is testimony of the days
and times of Shri RamKrishna as well as about the days of beginning of Shri RamKrishna
Mutt.
This two-storiedbuilding is very
well maintained and organized. It hosts artifacts used by Ramakrishna and
Sarada Devi, Swami Vivekananda and some of his disciples. The museum chronicles
the growth of the movement and the India/Bengal of that times.
It has the long coat worn by
Vivekananda in the West and Sister Nivedita's table. The museum has a
recreation of the Panchavati—the clutch of five sacred trees of the
Dakshineswar Kali Temple where Ramakrishna practicedsadhana. The black stone
bowl from which Ramakrishna took payasam (Kheer) and the pillow he had used are
on display.
Ramakrishna's room in the house
where he distributed ochre clothes to 12 disciples anointing Vivekananda (then
Narendranath) as their leader has also been shown with a model of Ramakrishna
bestowing grace on his disciples and the footwear used by Ramakrishna has been
put on the model. The room at Dakshineswar where Ramakrishna lived has been
recreated with display of clothes and other objects used by him, the tanpura
used by Vivekananda to sing to his master, and the copies of two charcoal
drawings sketched by Ramakrishna are also there.
This museum is excellent and one
must visit it. Its simply superb.
Little further up is the RamKrishnaTemple.
Swami Vijnanananda, a brother-monk
of Swami Vivekananda and one of the monastic disciples of Ramakrishna, who was,
in his pre-monastic life, a civil engineer, designed the temple according to
the ideas of Vivekananda and Swami Shivananda. The then President of Belur Mutt
laid the foundation stone on 16 May 1935 and it was consecrated on 14 January,
in 1938.
A full size statue of Sri
Ramakrishna is seated on lotus over a marble pedestal wherein the Sacred relics
of Sri Ramakrishna are preserved.
We all prayed to the master, the Paramhamsa,
the enlightened being.
Little further is a double storey
building. One mango tree there is the testimony of the times of Vivekananda. He
used to sit below it. First floor was his room, where he breathed his last in
1902 at the age of 39. SwamyVivekananda had fulfilled his own prophecy of not
living to be forty-years old.
Next is the temple dedicated to
Swamy Vivekananda.
Next is the memorial to other heads
of RamKrishna order. From here one can see the Samadhi of Shri RamKrishna on
the other side of the Ganga. It is easily distinguishable in the late evening
as it glows with lights.
We quickly visited the book shop
right in front of Shri RamKrishna temple and then with some books, took taxi back
to our lodge.
I had booked a taxi for same as
otherwise it was difficult to cover these places in short time that I had. The
plan was to visit TarkeshwarMahadev, Mayapur and then next day to Tarapith and
catch the train from Asansol railway station.
Early morning at round 7 AM, we were
all ready.
In next about two hours, we were at
Tarkeswar, which is about 70 KMs from Kolkata.
The Taraknath temple, dedicated to
Shiva worshiped as Taraknath, is a major pilgrimage. There was huge rush. With
the help of a panda, we approached the temple through narrow lanes. First we
went to the pond adjacent to the temple. It is known as Dudhpukur. All the milk
and holy water offered to Shiva, comes here. This pond is assumed to be very
auspicious. Many people were taking bath there.
The Panda helped us to get into the
queue quickly. Entire area was wet with water. People were trying to ride on
each other in hurry to go inside.
There is only one gate and so it was
managed by one security officer. He halts the people from one direction to
clear for people to other direction and vice versa.
Finally braving the crowd, we were
inside the sanctum. It was pitch dark inside and nothing was visible initially.
Later s eyes got adjusted to it, I was able to get the glimpse of Shiva Linga,
covered with a cloth. People were offering milk and Gangajal. We prayed to the
almighty and offered our reverence.
There is no window and any light
source inside. Temple administration should look into this as it’s a bit
suffocating there.
As per local legends, the temple was
built after a dream which led the mendicant brother of Raja Vishnu Das to
discover a Linga in the jungles near Tarakeswar. The temple was later built
around the swayambhulinga (self-manifested) referred as Baba Taraknath in 1729
AD.
Pilgrims visit the temple throughout
the year, especially on Mondays. But thousands of pilgrims visit Tarakeswar on
the occasions of 'Shivaratri'. The month of Sravana (mid-July to mid-August) is
auspicious for Shiva worship.
It was time to take road to Mayapur.
Nabadwip is famous as associated
with many Vaishnava acharyas and mystics. Because of paucity of time, we could
not go there and proceeded directly to Mayapur.
It was about 3 PM as we reached
Mayapur. I tried getting a room at ISKCON guest houses but failed to do so.
Finally took a room in a small hotel Plaza a couple of KMs away from ISKCON.
It is better to book accommodation
in advance through Internet, but I did a mistake here and thought that not much
rush will be there.
After taking some rest, we went to
the ISKCON temple and complex.
There were many foreigners indulged
in Krishna Bhakti. Singing bhajans and dancing, seems entire place was Krishna
Conscious.
From Temple, we walked towards the Samadhi
Mandir of SrilaPrabhupada
It is a memorial to ISKCON's
founder. It is very beautiful and environment was very soothing. Many people
were dancing and singing bhajans.
It was my long wish to be at Mayapur.
With grace of Krishna, it got fulfilled.
Along with Kalighat, Tarkeswar
andNabadwip, Tarapith are the three most revered shrines in Bengal. Tarapith is
a small town near Rampurhat in Birbhum district, known for its Tantric temple
and its adjoining cremation grounds where sadhana (tantric rituals) are
performed. The temple is dedicated to the goddess Tara.
It was a long drive of about 170 KMs
from Mayapur. We started early in morning at around 5 AM. By around 10, we were
there.
Road was ok, but not that great.
Google map helped us a lot.
The town of Tarapith was buzzing
with pilgrims. It was bigger town than my expectations and also crowd was more.
After getting taxi parked at a suitable place, we walked slowly towards the
powerful abode of Holy Mother.
With help of a panda, we got early
darshan queue and soon we were infront of the divine mother.
Blood sacrifice of goats is the
daily norm in the temple.
Bamakhepaworshipped in the temple
and resided in the cremation grounds as a mendicant and practiced and perfected
yoga and the tantric arts under the tutelage of another famous saint, the
Kailashpathi Baba. Bamakhepa dedicated his entire life to the worship of Tara
Maa. He did not follow the set rules of the temple and as result was even once
roughed up by the temple priests for taking food meant as offering for the
deity by Maharani of Natore. It is said that mother Tara appeared in the dream
of Maharani and told her to feed the saint first as he was her son. After this
incident, Bamakhepa was fed first in the temple before the deity.
It was great feeling and sense of
fulfillment to be here in the holy feet of mother. Bowing to her, we took the
road to Asansol.
Train was late by about 3 hours and
so much late we reached at home, sweet home!
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