I have visited Agra multiple times but last visit was many
years back, so it was time to refresh the memories.
Colleagues from Chennai were visiting, so made a plan to visit
Agra and FatehpurSikri during the weekend.
Though initial plan was to include Mathura also but later
dropped the idea as it would have been a little hectic.
Agra is about 200 KMs south of Delhi and 350 KMs west of
Lucknow. It is on the banks of the river Yamuna and is included on the Golden Triangle
tourist circuit, along with Delhi and Jaipur.
Although Agra's history is mainly associated with Mughal
Empire, the place was established much before it and was first mentioned in the
epic Mahabharat, where it was called Agrevaṇa. Agrevana
means “the front forest”, or from where the forest begins.
Taj Mahal gate |
Akbar also built a new city on the outskirts of Agra called
Fatehpur Sikri.
His son Jahangir laid many gardens inside the Red Fort at Agra.
His son Jahangir laid many gardens inside the Red Fort at Agra.
Shahjahan later shifted the capital to Delhi during his reign,
but his son Aurangzeb moved the capital back to Agra, usurping his father and
imprisoning him in the Fort here. Agra remained the capital of India during
the rule of Aurangzeb until he shifted it to Aurangabad in the Deccan in 1653.
After the decline of the Mughal Empire, the city came under
the influence of Marathas before falling into the hands of the British in 1803.
In 1835 when the Presidency of Agra was established by the
British, the city became the seat of government.
We started from Lucknow at around 645 AM, 45 behind planned schedule.
Lucknow Agra Expressway is awesome. Our Innova was just
sliding effortlessly. On the way we stopped at Baangarmau for a much needed
breakfast.
There was a couple of spells of rain on the way but overall the
drive was good and we were in Agra at about 1030 AM.
We headed directly to the most famous icon of the City, The
Taj Mahal.
The Taj Mahal, Agra Fort along with FatehpurSikri are UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
The Taj Mahal is an ivory-white marble mausoleum on the south
bank of the Yamuna river. It was commissioned in 1632 by the Mughal emperor,
Shah Jahan to house the tomb of his wife, Mumtaz Mahal.
Taj Mahal Gate (from inside) |
One can also take services of cycle rickshaw or horse driven "tanga".
After taking tickets we decided to cover the distance of about
one KM by walk.
Many guides approached us but we turned them down. They were
asking for charges ranging from Rs. 1000/- to Rs. 1500/-. I felt that as
student of history, I have sufficient knowledge about these monuments.
Moreover, I have observed that about half of the information given by these
guides are not true. So needs to consult books/Internet anyways.
The gate of Taj compound is huge and magnificent. Similar architecture has been used for other famous buildings of era, like Akbar’s tomb, or Fatehpur Sikri etc.
The best view of Taj comes from the gate at entrance. We
stayed there for some time clicking the pics.
Construction of the Taj was completed in 1643 but work
continued for another 10 years for other surrounding buildings and is believed
to have been completed in its entirety in 1653 at the then cost of about 3.2 crore
(32 million) rupees.
The construction project employed some 20,000 artisans under
the guidance of a board of architects led by the court architect to the
emperor, Ustad Ahmad Lahauri.
The Taj Mahal was commissioned by Shah Jahan in 1631, to be built in the memory of his wife Mumtaz Mahal, a Persian princess who died giving birth to their 14th child, Gauhara Begum.
Construction of the Taj Mahal began in 1632.
The Taj Mahal was commissioned by Shah Jahan in 1631, to be built in the memory of his wife Mumtaz Mahal, a Persian princess who died giving birth to their 14th child, Gauhara Begum.
Construction of the Taj Mahal began in 1632.
The Taj Mahal incorporates and expands on design traditions of
Persian and earlier Mughal architecture. Specific inspiration came from other
Mughal buildings including Humayun's Tomb, Itmad-Ud-Daulah's Tomb (sometimes
called the Baby Taj) etc.
The tomb is the central focus of the entire complex of the Taj Mahal. It is a large, white marble structure standing on a square plinth and consists of a symmetrical building on either side.
The tomb is the central focus of the entire complex of the Taj Mahal. It is a large, white marble structure standing on a square plinth and consists of a symmetrical building on either side.
Four minarets frame the tomb, one at each corner of the
plinth. The main chamber houses the false sarcophagi of Mumtaz Mahal and Shah
Jahan; the actual graves are at a lower level, the stairs for which is at the
entrance of main dome.
The most spectacular feature is the marble dome that surmounts
the tomb. The dome is nearly 35 metres (115 ft) high.The four minarets at each
corner are about 130 feet tall each.
The Taj Mahal complex is bordered on three sides by red
sandstone walls; the side facing the river is open. Outside the walls are
several additional mausoleums, including those of Shah Jahan's other wives, and
a larger tomb for Mumtaz's favourite servant.
Next to central complex, on each side, there are two grand red
sandstone buildings that mirror each other. The western building is a mosque and the other
is the jawab (answer), thought to have been constructed for architectural
balance although it may have been used as a guesthouse.
Red Fort, Agra |
At the end of the 19th century, British viceroy Lord Curzon ordered a sweeping restoration project, which was completed in 1908.
He also commissioned the large lamp in the interior chamber, modelled after one in a Cairo mosque. During this time the garden was remodeled with British-style lawns that are still in place today.
We walked through the entire complex. It was quite hot and
humid with lot of rush. In general, I avoid going any place which has so much
crowd. It prohibits peacefully enjoying the place.
Some repair work was in progress; some chemical cleaning was
also being done.
We visited the mausoleum, but the tourists are not allowed to
go to the actual graves, which is several feet below. It opens on special
occasion only.
Jahangiri Mahal, Red Fort |
Jahangir's bath tub, Red Fort |
On the right side of Taj, there is a Taj Museum, we also
visited the place. It has nice collection of Mughal era.
Royal residential complex |
Taj Mahal as seen from Red Fort |
Make sure to have a water bottle with you always, specially in summer months.
RohanAra Mahal |
With help of our cab driver, we got a decent hotel near the
eastern gate of Taj and after some rest and lunch we proceeded towards the Red
Fort.
Ladies Quarters |
After defeating Hemu, Akbar made it his capital and arrived in
Agra in 1558. His historian, AbulFazl, recorded that this was a brick fort
known as 'Badalgarh'. It was in a ruined condition and Akbar had it rebuilt
with red sandstone.
Deewane Aam |
Musamman Burj |
This seems incredible for a king made famous as an icon by our eminent historians!
Kaanch Mahal |
JahanAra Mahal |
The view of Taj is very beautiful from here.
Taj Mahal as seen from Red Fort |
Diwane Aam and Diwaane Khaas are quite intact to this day.
Near Musamman Burj is “Glass House”. It was build with glass
imported from different countries and said to glitter with light. Though it is
not allowed to go inside.
Taja Mahal as seen from Musamman Burj, Red Fort |
These mysterious pavilion needs to be explored.
Ladies Quarters |
Shivaji Maharaj was imprisoned here by Aurangzeb but very
skillfully, he was able to disguise himself and run away.
Musamman Burj, Shahjhan was prisoner here |
Man run for luxuries and fame for all its life, is there any
end to its lust? What is the end result?
Time makes a dust of all wishes.
The fort was invaded and captured by the Maratha Empire. It was lost by the Marathas to the British during the Second Anglo-Maratha War, in 1803.
The monumental Delhi Gate, which faces the city on the western
side of the fort, is considered the grandest of the four gates and a
masterpiece of Akbar's time. It was built in 1568 both to enhance security and
as the king's formal gate, and includes features related to both.
Because the Indian Army is still using the northern portion of the Agra Fort, the Delhi Gate cannot be used by the public. Tourists enter via the Amar Singh Gate.
The site is very important in terms of architectural history. Abul Fazal recorded that five hundred buildings in the beautiful designs of Bengal and Gujarat were built in the fort. Some of them were demolished by Shahjahan to make way for his white marble palaces. Most of the others were destroyed by the British between 1803 and 1862 for raising barracks. Hardly thirty Mughal buildings have survived on the south-eastern side, facing the river.
It was becoming dark as we slowly moved out of the fort.
Shivaji Maharaj |
Morning we got up early and got ready. Almost all the
monuments of Agra opens at sunrise. So its good to visit these early morning to
enjoy them in peace.
It-mad-ud-daulaah tomb gate (Baby Taj) |
It is often regarded as inspiration to Taj Mahal.
The main building is surrounded by gates in all four
directions and gardens. The tomb, built between 1622 and 1628 represents a
transition from red sandstone buildings to white marble ones.
It-mad-ud-daulaah tomb gate (from inside) |
It-mad-ud-daulaah tomb |
Many of Nur Jahan's relatives were interred in the mausoleum.
The only asymmetrical element of the entire complex is that the cenotaphs of
her father and mother have been set side-by-side.
It’s a beautiful construction at small scale but no less than
The Taj.
After visiting it, we thought of taking breakfast but then I
got the idea of taking it on the road to FatehpurSikri and so we took the road
to Sikandara, the town, which houses the tomb of Akbar.
Sikandara (Akbar's Tomb) Gate |
The tomb of Akbar was built by his son Jahangir. Akbar planned
the tomb and selected a suitable site for it. After his death, Akbar's son
Jahangir completed the construction in 1605–1613.
Sikandar Lodhi Tomb, Sikandara |
We started our excursions with visit to a tomb at the left
side. It belonged to Sikandar Lodhi. Currently in ruins and it seems that it
does not the attention that it deserves!
Kaanch Mahal (Used as a base for hunting), Sikandara |
There are sculpture of elephants on the front walls, I found to be
quite interesting. Was it constructed by Mughals or it was a pre-existing
building because of not seen any such motif on buildings constructed by Mughals.
The south gate is the largest and is the normal point of entry
to the tomb.
Though a grand, but still a simple building, the tomb of Akbar
has a different aura. The entry gate has some wall paintings also. We visited
the grave, which is inside in a big dome, notable for its wonderful acoustics.
There are also many graves inside this complex. It is believed
that Akbar wanted to have all his family members to be buried there, though it
did not happen.
The surrounding gardens have peacocks and deer roaming. The
area is quite peaceful and some love birds find refuge here!
Time to take road to FatehpurSikri!
But first we had to take much needed breakfast.
As we moved out of Agra, we stopped at “Brijwasi”.
Akbar's tomb ceiling |
It started raining as we proceeded further. But by the time we
reached FatehpurSikri Complex, it reduced to drizzling and finally stopped to
give us enough time to roam around.
Akbar's tomb (side view) |
Perhaps the Mughals constructed the building here on either pre existing ruins or by destroying the existing buildings.
It is said that this area was center of learning for Jainism.
There were many temples around. As per some historians all were demolished to
give way to Mughal buildings.
Fatehpur Sikri was founded in 1569 by the Mughal Emperor Akbar, and served as the capital of the Mughal Empire from 1571 to 1585, when it was abandoned.
Fatehpur Sikri was founded in 1569 by the Mughal Emperor Akbar, and served as the capital of the Mughal Empire from 1571 to 1585, when it was abandoned.
Deer at Akbar's tomb. There are many deer and peacocks here, |
Fatehpur Sikri is one of the best preserved examples of Mughal
architecture in India. It sits on rocky ridge, surrounded by a 6 km wall on
three sides with the fourth bordered by a lake. The building material used in
all the buildings at Fatehpur Sikri, palace-city complex, is the locally
quarried red sandstone, known as 'Sikri sandstone'.
FatehPur Sikri Buland Darwaza Complex |
Apart from the imperial buildings complex, little of the city
survives. The former site of the city is mostly barren, except of ruins of the
bazaars of the old city at Agra Road.
For a long time,this region is known for its masons and stone
carvers.
Buland Darwaza Complex |
We entered the complex through the “Shahi Darwaza”.
This complex has a white marble tomb of the Sufi saint, Salim
Chisti(1478–1572), within the complex courtyard. Surrounding it is a covered
passageway for circumlocution, with stone pierced screens all around with
intricate geometric design.
It is said that with his blessings, Jahangir was born to
Akbar.
Ishaq Khan's tomb, Buland Darwaza Complex |
The complex also has the Jama Masjid and it is said to be
constructed around 1571-72.
Buland Darwaza was added to the complex five years later.
We had hired a guide here, as It was my first visit to
Fatehpur Sikri. Though most of things that he explained, I knew already.
The courtyard is massive. At one corner, the guide showed us
the “Hiran Minar”. I am not sure about its usage. It might be a watch tower.
Sheikh Salim Chisti Tomb, Buland Darwaza Complex |
Now we walked towards the Buland Darwaza.
Buland Darwaza Complex |
When I asked about other attractions from the Guide, initially
he told me that this complex is what all is worth visiting and other palaces are closed for public. But I
knew there are something more at Fatehpur Sikri. After questioning multiple
times, he agreed that there is Jodhabai Palace and other Mughal buildings a
short distance behind the Buland Darwaza Complex.
Remember to do hard bargain with the guides and confirm their
explanation with books/Internet later.
Actually there are two gates. We entered through the rear gate
from the Buland Darwaza side and exited from the Deewane Aam gate to the main road.
Otherwise one can enter through the Deewane Aam gate and after
covering this complex can go out through the gate next to Jodhabai palace
towards the Buland Darwaza complex.
Jodha Bai's Palace (Entrance) |
Jodha Bai's Palace |
Little further on left side is the house of Akbar's favorite
minister, Birbal. Though I doubt on this as why he was allowed to stay within
Royal complex near to harem.
Jodha Bai's Kitchen |
It is next to Akbar's residence and said that Tansen used to
present his musical concerts here.
"Jewel House". Here Akbar used to sit with his 9 Jewels (trusted ministers) |
Paanch Mahal |
Little further are the “Jewel House”. Here Akbar used to had
meetings with his nine jewels (ministers). Inside of the building, particularly
the pillars are very beautifully carved.
I had never seen any such carving in any Mughal building earlier. Very beautiful!
Jewel house is also referred as Deewane Khaas. (Court to meet senior ministers)
I had never seen any such carving in any Mughal building earlier. Very beautiful!
Jewel house is also referred as Deewane Khaas. (Court to meet senior ministers)
Next to that is the Astrologers room. I am not sure if it belonged to some soothsayer or it was a granary or treasury.
Diwane Aam or Hall of Public Audience, is a building where the
ruler meets the general public. In this case, it is a pavilion-like multi-bayed
rectangular structure fronting a large open space.
Intricate designs inside the Jewel House (Deewaane Khaas) |
We didn’t missed any opportunity to capture the moments in our
camera.
Akbar's Residence |
Deewaane Khhas |
Petha of Agra
is very famous and one must enjoy it once in Agra.
There are many shops with same name as Panchhi Petha. Enquire with some reliable person about the real one
or search on Internet.
Another four hours and we were at home; sweet home!
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