Haridwar, Rishikesh, Kankhal (Kumbha Mela 2010)

"O Goddess Ganga! You are the divine river from heaven, you are the saviour of all the three worlds, you are pure and restless, you adorn Lord Shiva’s head. O Mother! may my mind always rest at your lotus feet."
(Shri Ganga Stotram Sh. 1)

The auspicious occasion of Kumbh Mela 2010, gave me the oppertunity to visit Haridwar (plus Rishikesh and Kankhal) during 8-10 April, 2010.


Haridwar is the gateway to the four pilgrimages of Uttaranchal. According to legend, Prince Bhagirath performed penance to salvage the souls of his ancestors, who had perished due to sage Kapil’s curse. The penance was answered and the river Ganga trickled forth from heavens. To reduce her force, Lord Shiva' binded her from his hair locks. Its bountiful water revived the sons of King Sagara. In the tradition of Bhagirath, devout Hindus stand in the sacred waters here, praying for salvation of their ancestors.

As Ganga proceeded, there were seven sages doing tapas on the way. Ganga divided herself in seven streams there. That place is known as SaptaDhara.

The Sapta Rishis are Kashyap, Vashishtha, Atri, Vishvamitra, Jamdagni, Bharadwaj and Gautam.

"O Jahnavi! You are full of compassion. You purify your devotees with your holy waters. Your feet are adorned with the gems of Indra’s crown. Those who seek refuge in you are blessed with happiness."
(Shri Ganga Stotram Sh. 8)

Haridwar is said to be one among the four sites where drops of the elixir of immortality, Amrit, accidentally spilled over from the pitcher, in which it was being carried away by the celestial bird Garuda, after the Samudra manthan. These four spots – Ujjain, Haridwar, Nasik, and Allahabad have today become places, where the Kumbha Mela is celebrated once every 3 years in one of these 4 places. So every 12 years it is repeated at the same place. Millions of pilgrims, devotees, and tourists congregate here from all over the world to celebrate the event. At Haridwar the spot where the Amrit fell is considered to be the Brahma Kund at Har ki Pauri (literally, "footsteps of the Lord,"), the most sacred ghat of Haridwar.

In the scriptures it has been variously mentioned as Kapilsthan, Gangadwar and Mayapuri. It is also an entry point to the Char Dham (the four main centers of pilgrimage in Uttarakhand viz, Badrinath, Kedarnath, Gangotri, and Yamunotri), hence, Shaivaites (followers of Lord Shiva) and Vaishnavites (followers of Lord Vishnu) call this place Hardwar and Haridwar respectively, corresponding to Har being Shiv and Hari being Vishnu.

Pandas or Priests of the Haridwar have been known to keep genealogy records of most of the hindu population. Known as "vahi", these records are updated on each visit to the city, and are a repository of vast family trees of family in North India.

Ain-e-Akbari, written by Abul Fazal in the 16th century during the reign of Mughal Emperor Akbar, refers to it as Maya (Mayapur), known as Hardwar on the Ganges”, as seven sacred cities of Hindus. It further mentions it is eighteen kos (each approx. 2 km) in length, and large numbers of pilgrims assemble on the 10th of Chaitra. It also mentions that during his travels and also while at home, Mughal Emperor, Akbar drank water from the Ganga river, which he called 'the water of immortality’. Special people were stationed at Sorun and later Haridwar to dispatch water, in sealed jars, to wherever he was stationed.

It is said that Raja Man Singh of Amber, laid the foundation of the present day city of Haridwar and also renovated the ghats at Har-ki-pauri. After his death, his ashes are also said to have been immersed at Brahma Kund by Mughal emperor Akbar himself. Thomas Coryat, an English traveller, who visited the city in the reign of Emperor Jahangir (1596–1627) mentions it as 'Haridwara', the capital of Shiva.

Being one of the oldest living cities, Haridwar finds its mention in the ancient Hindu scriptures as it weaves through the life and time stretching from the period of the Buddha, to the more recent British advent. Haridwar has a rich and ancient religious and cultural heritage. It still has many old havelis and mansions bearing exquisite murals and intricate stonework. Haridwar is well connected to all major cities and other parts of the Country. By train it can be easily reached from Delhi or Lucknow. Frequent Bus service is also available.

In Sanskrit, Haridwar stands for Dwara of Hari or Gateway to God, 'Hari' meaning god and 'dwar' meaning gate. Haridwar is regarded as one of the seven holiest places or "SaptPuri" to hindus.

We reached haridwar in morning (by Train). After coming out of station, one can see a lot of hotels on left side. Walk a little bit towards left as you come out of railway station.

We took a hotel, it was decent and clean.

After resting for 15-20 minutes, we started for Har-ki-pauri Ghat. (Steps of God)

There are many Ghats at haridwar, but Har-ki-Pauri or (Bramha Kund) is most famous and considered to be most sacred. Because of heavy rush, there were many travel restrictions and because of that we had to walk about 1.5 KMs to reach there. My mother have joint pains, but she accepeted the challenge to walk.

There was huge rush and pilgrims everywhere. We reached Har-ki-pauri after walking for about half an hour.

Har ki Pauri
This sacred Ghat was constructed by King Vikramaditya (1st century BC) in memory of his brother Bhrithari. It is believed that Bhrithari came to Haridwar and meditated on the banks of holy Ganga. When he died, his brother constructed a Ghat in his name, which later came to be known as Har-Ki-Pauri. The most sacred ghat within Har-ki-Pauri is Brahmakund. The evening prayer at dusk (Aarti) offered to Goddess Ganga at Har-Ki-Pauri (steps of God Hara or Shiva) is an enchanting experience for any visitor. A spectacle of sound and colour is seen when, after the ceremony, pilgrims float diyas (floral floats with lamps) and incense on the river, commemorating their deceased ancestors. Thousands of people from all round the world do make a point to attend this prayer on their visit to haridwar.

"O Bhagavati! Take away my diseases, sorrows, difficulties, sins and wrong attitudes. You are the essence of the three worlds and you are like a necklace around the Earth. O Devi! You alone are my refuge in this Samsara."
(Shri Ganga Sotram Sh. 9)

There was huge rush at Ghat. We looked for some suitable place to put our belongings. Chains are there at Ghat to protect the pilgrims. View of Mother Ganga gave the feeling of bliss.

Flow of water is great at Har-Ki-Pauri. So one has to be careful here.

Water was very cold. I prayed the almighty mother and then entered into the ice cold waters. Initially it took a few seconds for me to get adjusted with the temperature and then it felt so nice. It was so refreshing and blissful!!

It was pure bliss in bathing there...what else a human wants?
As I took the dip, it was so blissful.....just like divine mother took me in her lap saying "I am with you my child always". 

"O Mother! those who bathe in your waters do not have to take birth again. O Jahnavi! You are held in the highest esteem. You destroy your devotee’s sins and save them from hell."
(Shri Ganga Stotram Sh. 7)

Bathing here is a meditation.

At Kumbh Mela, it is said that Devas, Enlightened Masters, Yakshas, Siddhas, Gandharvas, all come to take a dip in holy waters of mother Alaknanda. So being there at this occasion makes it so blissful indeed!!

From the ghats one can have a view of temples related to Mother mansa Devi and Mother Chandi Devi on Hill tops.

After bathing and offering prayers to Mother as well as Lord Anshumaan, I came out of waters. Then a mouthful breakfast at "Chotiwala" at ghat was done.

Both Mansa Devi Temple and Chandi Devi Temples have ropeway, so visiting there has become very easy. But unfortunately there was some problem with ropeway at Mansa Devi and hence we need to cover that distance on foot.

Again my mother accepted that challenge to walk that ascending distance on that summer afternoon.

Mansa Devi Temple
Situated at the top of Bilwa Parwat, the temple of Goddess Mansa Devi, literally meaning the Goddess who fulfills desires, came out with the Manas of Bramha, is a popular tourist destination.

Delighted with darshan of blissful Mother, we came down to har ki Pauri road.

There was some small fruit, "Ram Phal" which some vendors were selling on that road to Mansa Devi.

It was purple in colour like "Jaamun". I took that, with salt it was tasty.

There are two ways to walk up to Mansa Devi Temple. One way involves all steps and another one has only a few steps and rest is through ascending pathway. This path, I felt is better than all stairs. This path starts just next to the "Ticket Ghar" of Mansa Devi Ropeway (Or Udan Khatola, as it is popularly known there.)

Our next destination was Chandi Devi Temple.

We took a Rickshaw to go to ChandiGhat. From there Auto are available to go to Chandi Temple.
We preferred to ascend by Ropeway (Udan Khatola). From the trolley the view below was beautiful but a little fearful as it ascends sharply and valley below is quite deep.

Chandi Devi Temple
 The temple is dedicated to Goddess Chandi, who sits atop the 'Neel Parvat' on the eastern bank of river Ganga. It was constructed in 1929 A.D. by the king of Kashmir, Suchat Singh. Skanda Purana mentions a legend, in which Chanda-Munda, the Army Chief of a local Demon Kings Shumbh and Nishumbha were killed by goddess Chandi here, after which the place got the name Chandi Devi. It is believed that the main statue was established by the Adi Shankracharya in 8th century A.D. Besides Chandi Devi Temple, there is also Anjani Temple here. It is said that mother Anjani did penance here.

After darshan, as we came down, it was almost dark. We were badly tired also, hence proceeded towards a restaurent at Railway Road and then retired to our hotel.

Next day morning started with a visit to Har-ki-Pauri and again the blissful snaan.

After breakfast we hired a Taxi for sight seeing.

First we went to Rishikesh.

Rishikesh, also spelled Hrishikesh, Rushikesh, or Hrushikesh, is a holy city and famous centre of pilgrimage.


It is also known as the gateway to the Himalayas and is located around 25 kilometres away from Haridwar. Rishikesh is the starting point for traveling to the sites that form the Uttarakhand char Dham pilgrimage — Badrinath, Kedarnath, Gangotri, and Yamunotri. This place gets its name after Lord Vishnu who appeared to 'Raibhya Rishi',as a result of his tapasya (austerities), as Lord Hrishikesh. In Skanda Purana, this area is known as 'Kubjamrak' as Lord Vishnu appeared, under a mango tree.

Historically, Rishikesh, has been a part of the legendary 'Kedarkhand' (the present day Garhwal). Legends state that Lord Rama did penance here for killing Ravana, the demon king of Lanka; and Lakshmana, his younger brother, crossed the river Ganga, at a point, where the present 'Lakshman Jhula' bridge stands today, using a jute rope bridge. The 'Kedar Khand' of Skanda Purana, also mentions the existence of Indrakund at this very point. The jute-rope bridge was replaced by iron-rope suspension bridge in 1889, and after it was washed away in the 1924 floods, it was replaced by a stronger present bridge.

The sacred river Ganga flows through Rishikesh. In fact, it is here that the river leaves the Shivalik ranges of Himalayas and flows out into the plains of northern India. Several temples, ancient as well as new, can be found along the banks of the Ganges in Rishikesh. The city attracts thousands of pilgrims and tourists each year, from within India, as well as from other countries.

Rishikesh, sometimes nicknamed "the world capital of Yoga", has numerous yoga centres that also attract tourists. It is believed that meditation in Rishikesh brings one closer to aattainment of moksha, as does a dip in the holy river that flows through it. It is also becoming a popular spot for white water rafting enthusiasts, both from India and abroad, as it offers medium to rough rapids in the course of river Ganges.

The name Rishikesh is loosely applied to an association of five distinct sections encompassing not only the town but also hamlets and settlements on both sides of the river Ganges. These include Rishikesh itself, the commercial and communication hub; the sprawling suburb Muni-ki-Reti or the "sands of the sages"; Shivananda Nagar the home of Sivananda Ashram and the Divine Life Society founded by Swami Sivananda, north of Rishikesh; the temple section of Lakshman Jhula, a little further north; and the assorted Ashrams around Swarg Ashram on the east bank.

We got down at "Ram Jhula" the hanging Bridge built in perhaps 1980s on the pattern of famous "Lakshman Jhula". We crossed Ganga through Ram Jhula and then visited Baba Kamli Ashram and Samadhi. It is at place called Swargashram. Swargashram ( Heavenly Adobe) as the name connotes is a beautiful place situated in picturesque surroundings at the foot of Himalayas on the left bank of the Ganges between Rishikesh and Laxmanjhula. It is the spiritual “ground zero” of Rishikesh, filled with a concentration of ashrams and temples. The areas is known for its healthy and satwik living environment. It is this spot where from ages of yore the famous Yogis and Rishis have been doing the Tapasya. Numerous mention of this spot occurs in the holy scriptures and Puranas.

We also visited Rameshwar Temple here.

Nest destination was Geeta Bhawan. It is one of the oldest temple complex in the area. We moved nothwords from here towards Lakshman Jhoola.

There is a "Tera Manzil Temple" (13 story temple complex) with idols of Gods, and Goddesses. View of the entire area from the top floor of the temple complex is excellent. It is said that Sunset view from this place in winters is wonderful.

Now we again crossed back the Ganga through Lakshman jhula. On the right bank of the Ganges is situated the ancient temple of Laxman. Lord Rama with Laxman made a twig bridge here on the way to their journey to high Himalayas.

Nearby are the "Aadi Badri Dwarkadheesh Temple" and "Sachcha Akhileshwar Temple". This has Lingam of 11 feet 3 inches in height.

Sun God was in no mood of Mercy. We went to a Rajasthani Hotel for our Lunch.

After Lunch we started for Kankhal.

Kankhal is a small town of historical and religious importance, 3 km south of Haridwar. It is most known for the Daksheswara Mahadev Temple, numerous ashrams and old houses. In the "Vanaparva" of the Mahabharat, where sage Dhaumya tells Yudhisthira about the tirthas of India, Gangadwar, i.e., Haridwar and Kankhal, have been referred to. Kankhal also finds mention in the poem Meghaduta (Cloud messenger), of the 3rd century AD, classical Sanskrit poet and dramatist, Kalidas.
Kankhal also finds mention in the travel accounts of Sister Nivedita (1867-1911), a disciple of Swami Vivekananda, wherein she mentions that long before Haridwar became popular, Kankhal had been a center for education and pilgrimage.

Our destinantion was Daksheshwar Mahadev Temple and Sati Kund.

Kankhal is most known for the ancient temple of Daksheswara Mahadev temple, situated in the south Kankhal town. The present temple was built by Queen Dhankaur in 1810 AD and rebuilt in 1962.

The story about this place is that King Daksha Prajapati, the father of Sati, Lord Shiva 's wife, performed yagya at this place. Daksha Prajapati did not invited Lord Shiva, and Sati felt insulted. Therefore she burnt herself in the yagya kund. Shiva burned with anger, sent the terrible Virabhadra, Bhadrakali and also his ganas. On the direction of Shiva, Virabhadra appeared with Shiva's ganas in the midst of Daksha's assembly like a storm wind and waged a fierce war on the gods and mortals present culminating in the beheading of Daksha. Later he was bestowed with the head of a goat.

Shiva roamed around the universe with corpse of Sati. Lord Vishnu cut down her body with chakra. All the pieces of body, when fell on earth, formed a "Shakti Peetha".

Next to the temple is the 'Daksha Ghat' on the Ganga. Much of the details of the famous Ashvamedha Yagna (Horse Sacrifice) of Daksha are available in the Vayu Purana.

Sati Kund is also there in the temple complex, where it is said that Sati laid down her life by "Yoga Agni".

There are a lot of Ashrams at Kankhal. I wanted to visit "Maa AnandMayi Ashram" as well as
"Harihar Ashram", but could visit only "Harihar Ashram". It is famous for the "Parad ShivaLinga Temple" and "Rudraksha Tree".

Then we retunrd back to Haridwar and a warm cup of tea hepled us to regain more energy.

We visited Maya Devi Temple next, who is the "Kula Devi" of Haridwar.

This ancient temple of Maya Devi, the Adhisthatri deity of Hardwar, is considered one of the Siddhapethas and is said to be the place where the heart and navel of Goddess Sati had fallen. It is one of few ancient temples still standing in Haridwar, along with Narayani Shila temple and Bhairav Temple.

The evening "Ganga Arti" is worth visiting for any pilgrim. The environment was excellent at that time. We reached there at Har-ki-Pauri at around 6:00 PM and took the appropriate seat to witness that grand aarti of immorality.



To get the best view, just cross the first dhara by bridge so that you can sit just infront of the Ganga Temple of hari ki Pauri.

The view was so fascinating, so exciting and so blissful. So much spritual energy I felt. Millions of hearts praying togeather to the Mother. And the Mother smilingly accepting the offerings ,was moving in every heart in form of compassion, love, devotion and in every eye in form of tears!!

Who wants Moksha? Isn't it more than that?

Dinner we took at "Chotiwala" and then proceeded to hotel to take rest.

Third day morning again a visit to Hari-ki-pauri as usual to get blessed.

This brings an end to this our current visit to Kumbh Mela. We were tired but very happy and feeling blessed to get this oppertunity to visit these sacred places at this auspicious occasion.

"O Mother Bhagirathi! You give happiness to everyone. The significance of your holy waters is sung in the Vedas. I am ignorant and am not capable to comprehend your importance. O Devi! you are full of mercy. Please protect me."
(Shri Ganga Stotram Sh. 2) 

PS:
A few more places worth visiting are Neelkanth Temple, Vasgishtha Gufa, Bheemagoda and SaptaRishi Temple.

These SaptPuri are: Ayodhya, Mathura, Haridwar, Varanasi, Kanchipuram, Ujjain and Dwarika.
There are PanchSarovar also. These are: Mansarovar, Bindu Sarovar, Narayan Sarovar, Pampa Sarovar and Pushkar Sarovar